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Ferrets - Housing - Ferret Cages

Ferret housing, hutches and ferret cages - the basics.

Ferrets are much safer in the confines of ferret cages, rather than loose about the house. It would be a nightmare to 'ferret proof' a house as they can get into, and prefer, tight spaces! And, of course, there is less risk of someone tripping over, or stepping on and injuring your pet ferret! You can keep your ferret indoors or outdoors or a combination of both if you are worried about the winter chill.

Where ever you decide home is going to be, your ferret will need a secure ferret cage or ferret hutch to keep it from escaping. Some people when choosing ferret housing opt for something along the lines of a rabbit hutch, outdoors, which is fine. The first time you put your ferret outdoors in the ferret hutch should be in the late spring or summer though, to allow it to acclimatise to the colder weather in autumn and winter. The ferret hutch should be located in a shaded area of the garden sheltered from wind and driving rain. You may have an old aquarium and decide this will do to start with as ferret housing, but remember, there will not be much air circulation in an enclosed tank, and it will need a secure lid, with a trapdoor in the roof - to get your ferret out through.

We are advised that an all wire ferret cage in a shed or utility room is better. You can buy one or make one yourself for a few pounds and the right tools. The minimum size for a wire ferret cage for a pair of ferrets is around 60cm long, by 35cm wide, by 25cm high. Again with a secure (lockable) trapdoor in the roof - to get your ferret out through. The wire floor should be raised off the ground to allow debris and ferret poo to fall through into the litter tray.

Whatever you choose as ferret housing, hutch or cage it should be divided into four areas; ferret nest box, feeding area, litter tray and open, play space. The ferret nest box needs to be at least about the size of a men's tissue box with at least one section of low side to enable ferret access. This can be made out of ply or even cardboard and can be lined with bedding of soft hay, shredded paper or cut up clothing material that won't fray (and get caught up in claws) - like T-shirt or sweat shirt or straw (we think that is a bit rough!). It does not need a lid.

The ferret feeding area needs to have a floor with a firm foot hold - ply wood is fine here. There should be a heavy earthenware bowl for food and an external water bottle with a stainless steel spout. Unless your ferret has never used one before, then a bowl and bottle will be needed until you are happy that the ferret has found the bottle and can use it - Then remove the bowl.

The ferret litter tray can be under the open area of the wire floor of the cage, which can be emptied without opening the cage, or it can be a cat litter type arrangement with a cut down side, inside the cage. Ferrets tend to pee and poo in the same place(s). This is a wild scent marking trait.

The ferret play space will be the remaining area left after the first three areas are designated. This is the area where you can put improvised ferret toys for the ferret(s) to examine and play with.

If you are planning on breeding ferrets then your ferret housing, hutches or cages will require an additional breeding annex that can be added to the outside of the cage, suitable for the female and her kits.

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